Giorgio
Armani and Roberto Cavalli have a combined age of 148 - and diametrically
opposed views on life. Armani, who likes aerodynamic women with boyish
physiques, founded an empire on a Look But Don't Get Too Excited approach to
sexuality in clothing.
Cavalli, who
as much as possible, would like everyone to resemble voluptuous Italian
starlets, founded a business on tight animal prints expressly conceived to
inspire heavy breathing.
At the end
of their respective shows, Armani stands alone at the end of his catwalk,
dressed in his habitual navy blue calico trousers and cotton T-shirt, a
beatific expression of prayer on his face as he presses his hands together in
benediction (offering thanks to the gods of pastel perhaps). Cavalli strides
down the catwalk in creaking leather trousers or jackets, trailing Eva, his
ex-beauty queen wife, and heady clouds of aftershave behind him as he eyes up
the celebrities in his front row.
It is a
testament to the diversity of taste that still exists in an increasingly
homogenised global market that both men continue to profit from such
diametrically different aesthetics - more than profit, since both had the honour
of bringing Milan Fashion Week to a close.
Both did so
by sticking to the founding principles of their success with tiny - almost
imperceptible to the naked eye - tweaks. At Cavalli, to a soundtrack that
sounded like machine gun, the models romped around in empire line, leopard and
snake printed chiffon dresses that attempted to combine classic Cavalli
hammer-over-the-head seduction techniques with a touch of Kate Greenaway. It
was an ambitious marriage if not an entirely convincing one.
For Armani,
against the soothing rhythm of lapping waves, the evolution focussed on soft
jackets with slightly more pointy than usual shoulders that evoked the prow of
a small fishing boat, and a new slim trouser, slit up the front. He cuts a good
pair of trousers, when he's not being tricksy, and this one was big news. Just
in case this message was lost on anyone, Armani showed them underneath the
pointy jackets, beneath sarong skirts, or with dresses- and sometimes with all
three. Fortunes were mixed , but Armani's beaded red carpet dresses ,
especially the strapless ones that looked like uber glamorous towels, are
always fit for purpose, although the accompanying cuban heeled shoes didn't do
them full justice.
There was a
seaside theme - hence the gentle aqueous hues of those iridescent silks, the
shell coloured embellishment on the evening wear and, presumably, the
prow-boaty shoulder. But was Armani trying to tell us something more? Were the
models posing as the Three Graces in their beaded towel dresses and the mellow
moon that hovered over the catwalk code for "I'm retiring to Koh
Samui?"
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