Christian Dior opened at Paris Haute Couture week in spectacular style this afternoon with a breathtaking show - the first in 14 years without designer John Galliano at the helm.
The disgraced creative head was fired by Dior for his 'odious behavior' in March after news broke of an alleged anti-Semitic attack in a Paris bar.
Instead it was 51-year-old Bill Gaytten - part of the design team at Dior for 23 years - and head of the label's studio - who took a bow at the end of the show, along with his assistant, Susanna Venegas. And today, the shadow hanging over Galliano proved not to trouble the new design team too much, as they showed a lighthearted collection that was a spectacular riot of colour.
Layers and layers of silks and taffeta are used to offset the tightness of the corsets creating very theatrical shapes. The shapes (not always hourglass) are sometimes asymmetrical, bulbous, or sharp squares. The Frank Gehry inspiration is really prevalent and the pieces, so full of texture, are making the architect/Tiffany jewelry designer look great!
By about look 20 the dresses took a turn toward the softer side of things… so did the hair. A more relaxed fluid look came upon the runway and the pieces swished along while still holding true to the geometric theme with the use of prints on the dresses.
Large bold stripes are printed on full dresses that take over the stage and the models turn into dancers and weave their way to the camera pit all the while creating waves with their full gowns. The audience is captivated by the ever increasing size of the dresses that are literally brushing the minolos of the front row elite from the massive trains of what could very well be red carpet/wedding gowns in the very near future.
Astonishingly for an autumn/winter collection, the catwalk came alive with bright tones - and there was absolutely no fur.
Models took to the catwalk in fairy-tale dresses crafted from layers of candy-hued tulle that swirled in ruffles about their hips, falling in sumptuous folds to the floor.
The undulating lines of architect Frank Gehry inspired the flow of the garments, evident in the acres of rippling tulle and the boxy pleats of colourful, voluminous skirts that jutted out from padded hips.
Soft ribbons of chiffon in soft macaron hues contrasted with geometric monochrome prints, and diaphanous chiffon was sliced through with vibrant hues of cobalt and crimson.
Many themes ran through the show, from Gehry to David Hockney's pop art brights and a couture take on Pierrot, but while the themes were disparate, the common thread running through the show was clearly Mr Gaytten and his team's talent for fine tailoring, with delicate pleats, ruffles and texture reigning.
What was evident though, was the lack of a strong voice tying the show together. Yes, there was gifted tailoring, but in Galliano's absence there was a tangible lack of cohesion, with the differing looks seeming at times to be from a number of disparate shows.
It seemed clear this was the work of a team without the clear leadership Galliano brought to the design house.
Galliano's notorious sense of theatre was missed in the staging too: the set lacked his sensational talent for high drama and narrative.
But while there's no doubt that Dior are feeling the loss of their visionary creative head at this time, the team at Dior proved the experience is there, even if the direction is not yet.
In fact, there was lightness to this Dior show; dramatic silhouettes and staging were replaced by the more ethereal aesthetic of the long-time backroom team, led by Bill Gaytten.
Mr. Gaytten's first taste of the spotlight came last week as he led the menswear collection in Paris for the first time.
Heralded by critics as a 'fine collection', it proved this shadow player could be a big hit.
The runway show staged by the French fashion house is always a highlight, but this year's show was made all the more landmark following the departure of Mr. Galliano.
For the first time since 1997 when the designer was drafted in to shake up the label, the French fashion house showed without their flamboyant creative head.
A pause to reflect on who actually made these clothes takes over but then dissipates as the show takes a turn for the interesting. The finale look complete with calico hat and a jabot neck frill made of sheer taffeta and silver edging takes flight. The dress itself looked as if it were made with square flaps of metallic silver silk that flapped as it graced the catwalk.
Finally the moment of truth… The lights dimmed and then raised again all the while the final dress stood poised in perfection, then a familiar face walked out. The designer of the John Galliano label Bill Gaytten who was seen after the John Galliano men’s show in Paris just days earlier was the man to walk out at the end of the show receiving tones of applause that was well earned. Though it is not certain if Bill Gaytten will be the official head designer for Christian Dior I am sure the truth will be revealed in the near future.
Saying they operated a 'zero tolerance' attitude towards racism, the firm parted ways with Galliano while his court appearances were played out in the public eye. The court's verdict will be heard in September.
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